The Arditti Process
Before we begin
We inspect each skin for imperfections. We look for a strong, natural likeness to one another, making sure there’s a proper match.
- We cut the vamp, counter and tops by hand.
- Our artisans hand sew your chosen stitch pattern onto the tops. They do it freehand, using their years of experience as the ultimate guide.
- Proper lasting can’t happen without a careful, hand attachment of the pipe to the vamp. Our craftsmen sew this by hand.
- We start the wet-lasting process. We choose the proper last (foot form) and soak the leather to create an enduring, perfect fit. Without this step, should you get your boots wet, the skin can become deformed. What’s more, wet-lasting creates good shape in production, rather than having to “break in” a shape with your foot.
- We shave the all-leather insole to the size of the last, then we place the upper over the last and the insole.
- Next is creating a virtually unnoticeable leather toebox. (Many other makers use plastic or celastic.) We place a 3” x 4” inch slab of stiff leather over the toe area and shave it down carefully, making hard edges blend with the form of the other leathers.
- A master bootmaker hand sews the welt to attach the boot upper to the insole.
- We place a sturdy, metal shank under the insole and then cover it with a leather sole.
- We insert lemonwood pegs around the sole in four rows, using a minimum of 36 per side. This prevents the metal shank from twisting, locking it into its proper place. Unlike metal nails, lemonwood pegs never corrode, enabling your boots to be resoled indefinitely.
- We hand carve a heel for your boot out of stacked leather. We custom fit it to the outsole and hammer it into place.
- A master finisher sands, stains and polishes the sole and heel.
- Our detailer polishes and touches up any stray dye, then fits and installs the inner lining.
- We put your boot through a rigorous inspection to make sure the construction is nothing less than perfect.
We hand shave our leather insoles to fit perfectly.